Divided States of Chili: A Guide to America's Most Contentious Stew

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Divided States of Chili: A Guide to America's Most Contentious Stew
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Which do you prefer: con carne or Cincinnati-style?

To write about chili is to court controversy; few subjects in American culinary life are so contentious. Chili is for Americans what paella is for Spaniards, or Bolognese is for Italians. It seems like everyone knows exactly what they think chili should be, and everyone knows that everyone else is wrong.

The origins of the dish are unclear, but according to the International Chili Society , it's generally accepted that cattle drivers in the Southwest created and popularized it. While it's difficult to pin down any definite source for those claims, there is verifiable historical evidence of so-called"chili queens," women who set up chili stands inin San Antonio, Texas, in the 1880s, although they had likely been selling chili in the plaza for some time before that.

The popularity of chili cook-offs was cited in a joint resolution, introduced on September 26, 1991, in the United States Congress by then-Representative James Inhofe of Oklahoma, as a compelling reason to designate chili the official food of the country. The text of the bill offers other rather convincing arguments as well.

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