Dior’s Kim Jones celebrates 5 years as designer in gender-fluid Paris men’s show

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Dior’s Kim Jones celebrates 5 years as designer in gender-fluid Paris men’s show
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PARIS (AP) — The historic courtyards of the Ecole Militaire served as the grand stage for Dior’s men’s show on Friday, a spectacle that played out und...

PARIS — The historic courtyards of the Ecole Militaire served as the grand stage for Dior’s men’s show on Friday, a spectacle that played out under the watchful eye of the Eiffel Tower.

at the helm of Dior menswear. The collection displayed was decidedly bold, marrying traditionally feminine elements of Dior’s past with a modern men’s aesthetic, effectively capturing the gender-fluid ethos of Generation Z.“Dior is a haute couture house,” Jones remarked. “It’s a culture we have inherited from womenswear past and applied to menswear present.” The show exhibited styles that championed a softer approach to masculinity.

Stephen Jones, famed for his millinery, contributed with reinterpretations of new wave beanies that bore “ronghua,” exquisite velvet flowers of Chinese origin dating back to the Tang dynasty. The show’s punk inspiration manifested in the form of gravity-defying hairstyles reminiscent of Edward Scissorhands, pairing flawlessly with the models’ imposing black boots, evoking the rebellious spirit of the punk rock era. Watanabe masterfully encapsulated the raw energy and DIY ethos of punk, crafting a narrative that boldly deconstructed sartorial norms and reassembled them with a new, rebellious syntax.

Opening with Vincent Cassel’s nonchalant stride, the show paid homage to a more restrained era of fashion. The collection breathed ’90s nostalgia with tailoring in hues of warm gray, chic dusty green, and smudged beige. While the relaxed silhouette of menswear and sophistication of womenswear struck a nostalgic chord, Mattiussi laced the collection with sequined button-downs and slip skirts, an audacious nod to contemporary glamour.

Designer Nigo, who took the reins at Kenzo in September 2021, continued his youthful revitalization of the brand — moving it away from the preppy styles that defined his previous showings. Renowned for merging American workwear with street style, Nigo infused the collection with his signatures while honoring Kenzo’s print-heavy legacy.

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