How to make caramel-crusted, custard-soft, ridiculously aromatic sweet pride of Bordeaux
During the summer of 1993, a friend and I biked some 600 miles from Paris to the Dordogne river region of France. Riding through small villages with no advance reservations meant that our mealtimes were unpredictable, so we kept hunger at bay the French way: by picking up snacks at whatever boulangerie or patisserie crossed our paths. Our nylon bags, stuffed with baguettes and pain au chocolat, left a scent trail of butter and chocolate through the wind.
Canelés are textural masterpieces. The burnished crust—lacquered with butter and, traditionally, beeswax—crackles like the outer crumb of a fresh baguette. Canelés are textural masterpieces. The burnished crust—lacquered with butter and, traditionally, beeswax—crackles like the outer crumb of a fresh baguette, the torched sugar coating on crème brulee, or the burnt corner slice of brownie. The creamy insides are the most delicate custard, luxurious like pastry cream but with a fine porosity. The aromas of egg, vanilla, and rum are unmistakable.
During a tasting, Laiskonis presented Le Coze with some forward-thinking petit fours, and she told him she liked them. But, she demurred, “the final bite the guest takes at the table should represent a reward after the meal, after the more complex dessert courses. We shouldn't force them to think beyond pure enjoyment.”
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