Sleep beneath the stars on a camping road trip to the wildlife-packed watering holes of Namibia’s Etosha National Park, pitching a tent where cinematic sand dunes meet open plains
It’s a few too many minutes after midnight, and I really should be asleep. But instead, I’m binge-watching — live and screen-free. My current obsession, a YouTube sensation, has just waded into the water hole up to her belly, then out again. She’s now marked like a honey badger: her top half silver-grey from dust; lower half dark from the water. For a rhino, it’s a strong look.
As well as delighting their fans with their animated comings and goings, the individuals I’m watching are ambassadors for a conservation success story. Thanks to tight security and water holes such as this one, Etosha’s endangered black rhinos are increasing in number. But their future is far from secure.
Our briefing takes place in a leafy overlanders’ lodge on the outskirts of Windhoek, Namibia’s capital, where slender, grey mousebirds flit through the trees. United by anticipation, it doesn’t take long for our group to bond. “From this moment on, we’re family!” booms our exuberant driver and guide Samora Omumborombonga Hoveka, one of the Herero people. With an early start before us, our rhythm of convivial but judiciously short evenings begins.
As we travel between beauty spots by truck, we look out for desert-adapted wildlife, calling out when we spot oryx, ostriches or weaverbird nests up ahead. There are stops in towns, where we sample a slice of Namibian life that many safari-goers miss out on. Mingling with the locals at supermarkets and fuel stations, we shop for Namibian newspapers and South African biscuits, and buy purified water from high-tech refill points.
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