Controversy and frivolity marked day one of Paris FashionWeek debuting Spring/Summer 2023 Collections. Dior Schiaparelli KylieJenner Details
PARIS — The pioneering Black performer Josephine Baker -- who left the United States to find global fame in Paris in the 1920s -- was Dior’s muse for an old school spring couture collection of archetypal classicism.
The stark tableaux photographs documented Baker’s extraordinary life and her many roles: as member of the French Resistance, civil rights activist and humanist as well as dancer and performer.According to Dior, a series of coats, a take on bathrobe styles depicted “the cozy, intimate dressing room that precedes entrance on stage.” In couture terms they were undeniably beautiful, if somewhat restrained. The first came in silk velvet; its black diamond lapels hung with a dramatic weight.
That being said, it was admirable how many models of color walked the show -- in over half the 60 looks -- especially because of the fact Paris Fashion Week, and the luxury industry as a whole, have wrestled with persistent accusations of being white-centric.“Game of Thrones” star Maisie Williams looked every bit the part posing against images of stars such as Earth Kitt, Nina Simone and Baker with pixie hairstyle and Dior bustier to flashes of photographers’ lenses.
Dior provoked criticism online for extending a Paris couture show invitation to a Russian TV presenter called Yana Rudkovskaya, who was sanctioned by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy in Jan. 15 for her connections to Russian President Vladimir Putin. Other houses have reportedly refused to allow Rudkovskaya, who is an influencer, into their shows.
Designer Daniel Roseberry was on top form Monday -- taking classical styles and giving them unexpected twists. A dark tuxedo with stiff oversize shoulders was transformed into a minimalist, space-age jumpsuit. Yet the collection was also reverential to the house founder whose unique brand of frivolity charmed audiences around the world. A giant lion’s head -- replete with fangs and bushy mane -- modeled by Irina Shayk added a bite to this collection. It was an inventive nod to Surrealism -- but also a statement about the absurdity of the use of fur.
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