The independent Swiss brand is enjoying a purple patch
His company Oris stands apart from its more famous Swiss rivals, though it has been holding its own against them for years. You can pick up an Oris watch for the third of the price of an Omega, for example, but not a third of the quality. Oris watches are extremely well-made, good-looking and have features and functions you’ll struggle to find anywhere else in the £2,000-£4,000 category . Oris has been described as ‘possibly the best value in the Swiss-made watch industry’.
Another factor is that kind of status a watch can give you has changed. As Studer says, status used to mean ‘heavy and serious’. Now it can mean the opposite. Which is where Oris’s confidence in, for example, colourful dials has really paid off. Why wear a pilot watch with a traditional white dial, like your dad, when you can wear aOris has also been pushing its ‘in house’ movements – building the inner workings of its watches itself.
Zoomed in with the company’s co-CEO. Studer discussed the brand’s current success, why watches should always make you smile and how staying independent is key to its success.It gives you credibility, to show what you can do as a brand – that’s one thing. The other thing is that you can build them to your specifications. So when we did our Calibre 400 [launched in 2020], we didn’t want to do just ‘another’ in-house movement.
Exactly. And also a watch only comes to life with the emotions you have towards it, you know? That’s why our company purpose really is – top line – to make people smile. This watchmake you smile. And if it doesn’t, please do not get it! And there are always different reasons that we can make you smile. Maybe the dial colour. Maybe the movement. Maybe the size. It doesn’t matter, right? There are different reasons to like a watch, to get engaged with a watch. Whatever works for you is good.
It’s a generational shift. Our fathers would have ‘a watch’. Now there’s this idea of having a collection. Or, at least, more than one to swap around with different outfits That came from us being one of the first companies after the quartz crisis to really focus on mechanical watches. It was to signal ‘Hey, you have [a mechanical watch] in front of you’. It has life, it has blood. Hence the red colour.That’s another thing the pandemic accelerated. It accelerated a development in the luxury industry, going from exclusive luxury to inclusive luxury.
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