Montreal smoked meat has long been defined by a rivalry. Schwartz’s deli may have been better known, but for many Montrealers the best smoked meat sandwich was…
“Yes, Leonard Cohen went there occasionally, but it wasn’t the big deal it’s sometimes made to be,” Lieber said. “The Canadian sculpture Stanley Lewis practically lived in the Main delicatessen.”
The restaurant took its name from what Montrealers used to call “the Main” — a stretch of St. Laurent Boulevard upon which the deli was located, once the heart of the city’s Jewish community. The Main Deli was one of the last “Jewish-looking” businesses in the area, said Zev Moses, executive director of the Museum of Jewish Montreal.Article contentBut heritage isn’t just about looks, Moses said.
“In every respect, it was a downtown Jewish delicatessen,” said Lieber, who praised Varvaro’s latkes — a traditional Jewish potato pancake. “It was the place where you could meet like-minded people. You could meet old Jewish families that had been there for generations,” she said in an interview from her home in England.Varvaro “spent a long, long time preparing the herbs and spices and experimenting, experimenting, experimenting to get it right,” Pope said.
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