Discover Dior's spring 2022 couture collection:
Maria Grazia Chiuri always speaks so passionately about craftsmanship and the human touch, it would have been a wasted opportunity not to get her reaction to the new year’s favorite talking point: the metaverse. “Oh, I don’t. I’m not,” she said, with zero hesitation. “I’m not interested in this moment, it’s more important to speak about humanity. I’d like us to be more together and support each other, and put value on work.
Her Christian Dior collection was an investment in human connection. Foregoing any direct references, Chiuri devoted it to the masterful but often unobvious constructions unique to haute couture garments, which are hand-crafted by experts working. Through a crystallizing palette of black, white, and grays, she demonstrated the difference between said construction and the surface decoration people often mistake it for. “The craftsmanship that finishes [a garment] is not valued.
During fittings a few days before the show, Chiuri demonstrated her point in the studio. A long ecru cashmere cape was pieced together with embroidery— not plain stitching—so invisible it looked as if the entire shape had been knitted in one piece. She explained how a guipure-like embroidered breastplate in silk crepe with silk cord threads was actually part of the construction of a long black silk cady dress, and not a decorative detail as a layman might assume.
Impressive as it was, it didn’t distract from a Dior collection that felt like a reset for Chiuri. Next to her jumpsuits, which mainly served to illustrate what embroidery can do, she essentially proposed a sophisticated daywear wardrobe through the immaculate lens of haute couture.
Her eveningwear often had an undertone of bridalwear about it, emblematic of a year ahead when all those patient brides and grooms of the pandemic will hopefully finally get their turn down the aisle. The formal silhouettes had the same sensibility as Chiuri’s daywear, but it often cut a sculpted, statuesque line that we haven’t detected this visibly since her Valentino days.
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