Chanel Sees Your Rosette Trend and Raises You a Camellia

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For CHANEL's fall 2023 show, Virginie Viard reinterpreted classic floral trends according to the house's heritage.

Virginie Viard’s fall 2023 collection for Chanel was an ode to the house codes we all know and the clients love: gentle, romantic, a touch bohemian. The designer aimed to present clothing that felt “delicate and in motion,” according to the show notes.

At the center of the black stadium erected inside the Grand Palais Éphémère was a giant, sculptural camellia. On each seat was a single fresh-cut bloom of the house flower. Neither was a red herring. The collection was festooned with camellias of all sorts—and, according to Viard, the camellia was “more than a theme,” it functioned as a unifying accent for the collection.

The silhouettes followed a ’60s Mod/bohemian bent, and a short film shot by the photographers Inez and Vinoodh featured Japanese actress Nana Komatsu as a Polly Maggoo type. The bottom half of many of the signature tweed suits was a pair of culottes worn over lace tights. There were long prairie dresses and Channellian versions of Mod moto. Some of the prettiest looks were long, apron-like A-line dresses that felt light and fresh amid the mix.

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