Central Saint Martins Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
What is the secret sauce of the Central Saint Martins MA—the crucible that produced Alexander McQueen , and, a generation later, Sean McGirr , who’s now in the McQueen hot seat, as well as a hundreds-strong alum diaspora of independent London designers and team specialists at work across planet fashion? In a nutshell—a point that shines out in defiance of Brexit Britain and small-minded politics—it’s the diversity of student talent it draws from, the individuals who Professor Fabio Piras and...
Bandil had worked for Manish Arora in Paris, gaining industry experience before making his MA application. So had Alvaro Mars, who’d previously had his own brand. “I’m Spanish—Spanish,” he laughed, describing the “everyday couture” idea he pursued by making pouffed panniers out of cotton shirts, styled over chopped-up tailoring or a gray sweatsuit, underpinned with Spanish leather-goods expertise .
Across the table in the CSM studio, one of them was Jonathan Ferris, who had sourced a 3-D scanning company who printed latex masks of his own head. “I’m working-class, and I’ve had a lot of 9-to-5 jobs where I struggled with the anxiety to fit in,” he said. His conceptual revenge on the repression of British uniformity was a disconcertingly Ferris-faced collection of messed-up menswear classics with hair streaming from the back of office shirts, or knotted as a tie.
Amongst all of this individualism, self expression ran from quieter passages of tailoring to the grandly performative theatrical finale put on by Maximilian Raynor. What matters in this place of education is not the look, but the reasoning, the quality of the outcome and the narrative that lies within it. With the expense of school fees a rising barrier to all of that—plus concern about the environment—students are more conscious than ever of making their design work eloquently worthwhile.
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