Tasting Notes: Cantonese cuisine's evolutionary leap in Los Angeles
in the San Gabriel Valley. The closures included three Monterey Park behemoths — Ocean Star Restaurant, Empress Harbor Seafood Restaurant and Lincoln Seafood — that relied on opulent banquets and the popularity of weekend dim sum cart service to thrive.Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more from critics Bill Addison and Patricia Escárcega.
The term “Cantonese” encompasses Guangdong’s direct, lightly seasoned, vegetable-rich cooking and also the mingled, urban foodways of nearby Hong Kong and Macao, with their centuries of global influences. The other restaurants, both in Los Angeles proper, come from two young chefs cooking to maintain connection with their heritage.Ryan Wong, who grew up in the SGV, worked at Trois Mec and Otium over the last decade before openingin Silver Lake four months ago. “I never really connected with the food I was cooking in fine dining,” Wong said in a telephone interview. “It was great to learn the techniques, but I didn’t feel it deep down.
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