If you order the warm tofu at n/soto, it will arrive first. The moment of ceremony feels settling.
A kaiseki restaurant in unassuming environs, where chef Niki Nakayama prepares exhilarating Japanese tasting menus.
Locally or nationally, fewer restaurants bill themselves these days as izakayas. The word denotes a Japanese eating and drinking establishment that’s often interpreted in English as a “pub” or “tavern” — terms that can belie the finesse of cooking. Carole Iida-Nakayama, Niki Nakayama and executive chef Yoji Tajima. Right: The n/soto patio is light-filled and airy.
The selection evolves continually, but the sense of artfulness and subtlety is also constant — occasionally too much so. Tiny florets of pickled cauliflower and pepitas gild a dish of scallop sashimi ; the dressing uses vinegar made with ume, a preserved plum that usually packs a salty wallop. This one is so restrained that the whole composition tastes underseasoned.
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