Morgenstern’s has unveiled a new sundae counter, which is open on Friday and Saturday nights. lesliepariseau reports
What could be better? Photo: Mark Abramson On a Saturday night, at the height of summer, 50 or so people flood the gleaming-white interior of the Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream parlor on the corner of Houston and La Guardia Place. They crane necks and taste samples to decide which of the shop’s 88 flavors they will order , but a few feet away, Nick Morgenstern himself stands behind a comparatively quiet eight-seat luncheonette-style counter, focused on a sundae.
Morgenstern’s new sundae counter, which is open only on Friday and Saturday nights and which occupies a tiny sliver of real estate on the side of the flagship Houston Street shop, might be the most complete embodiment of his all-consuming pursuit.
These, plus a frilly Grasshopper, a brownie à la mode, and a shortcake-laden butter-pecan option, are the classics that make up half of Morgenstern’s sundae menu. They are simple but dogmatic. The other half is more maximal yet no less refined. Instead of being timeless, they are representations of the country’s collective palate right now, which straddles the conventions of sundae-dom while occasionally subverting it.
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