The state's next-gen vintners have more ingenuity than money, and they're changing California wine for the better.
When Ryan Stirm started his eponymous label, he says, “I didn’t realize how unpopular Riesling would be.” But he was persistent. A cellar rat in Santa Barbara, Stirm flipped a fixer-upper there and, with the profits, was able to move to Santa Cruz and grow his coworking winery,. Six years later, he’s fêted for his Riesling. Naturally fermented, unfiltered, and unfined, his old-vine wine from Cienega Valley has a heady guava nose, lush texture, and sly acidity.
Strawberry-tart Mourvèdre, skin-fermented Chenin Blanc redolent of honey and Meyer lemon—Megan Bell, 29, makes low-intervention wines such as were once unheard of on the Central Coast. Bell launchedon Kickstarter in 2016 and guides growers in emerging regions, like the Santa Clara Valley, through converting their vineyards, and she sources most of her obscure varieties from these growers. “My most important mission is getting more small farmers to farm organically,” she says.
, as “a platform” to create wine that speaks of origin, which for her wines is the volcanic soil of the Edna Valley. Lepe’s identity encourages new wine lovers. “I have a lot of Hispanic clientele. Traditionally we weren’t into wine, but when I tell my story of starting with nothing, they get excited.”
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