Tod’s, Gucci and Ferragamo are all putting their money behind vintage bag comebacks – for a variety of reasons.
While brand archives were originally designed as a safe space to store clothes, fashion vaults have become an integral part of strategies as houses look to the past to move forward. For a new creative director coming into a storied institution, such as, a period of immersion in a company is essential to grasp what a brand is about, from the foundations up, and to work out what financially viable mark they, in turn, can make on its legacy.
As an entry-level product into a brand’s universe and a commercial cash cow, handbags are ripe for revivals. “It’s a tried and tested method of bringing back former customers who want to relive a certain style, and it allows new shoppers to take part in the nostalgia of an archive design while also adding a fresh twist or updated features,” says Tony Freund, editorial director and director of fine art at 1stDibs. “It also furthers brand recognition.
For his Milan Fashion Week debut, Davis brought back Salvatore Ferragamo’s Wanda bag. Born in 1988, the boxy top-handle style, which boasted capacious Mary Poppins-like proportions, was named after Mr Ferragamo’s wife, who played a transformative role in the brand’s history. Davis modernised the house favourite, giving the Wanda a minimalist makeover with Ferragamo Gancini hardware punctuating the new patent black and ombré outers.
Wanda Ferragamo, a mother of six children with no formal training under her belt, took charge of Salvatore’s empire when the shoemaker died aged 62. Her first power move? Installing her 19-year-old daughter Fiamma as head designer and recruiting another, named Fulvia, to helm a new silk scarf division. Shoes, which had admittedly made the brand a star favourite in Hollywood in the ’20s and ’30s, would no longer be enough to cut it in a competitive industry.
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