LVMH Prize finalist Aaron Esh presented a standout S/S 2024 collection at the Tate Modern yesterday. Here, he speaks to Wallpaper* about his vision for his burgeoning label
It’s been a whirlwind of a year for London-born designer Aaron Esh.
‘It’s the clothes that I see when I’m at a house party; or the clothes someone would wear to do an off-license run –big shades, ripped jeans, a blouse thrown over her shoulder, a pair of flip flops. There’s an authenticity and realness to the clothes, mixed with beautiful tailoring and amazing craftsmanship. That’s what we’re trying to achieve.’And achieve it Esh did. Every piece was expertly finished and felt infinitely wearable; a capsule wardrobe for contemporary London.
That decisiveness came through in the clothes. There is a touch of Hedi Slimane’s Parisian Celine in Esh’s work, but seen through the grittier lens of the British capital’s fashion and art scenes. Bootleg, low-slung jeans – reminiscent of mid-noughties cuts made by Alexander McQueen – came in raw and washed denim. Shirts and blouses, made in crisp poplin or slinky jersey, with scarf and cutout detailing met with relaxed yet refined tailoring.
The show’s soundtrack was courtesy of music director Joh Gosling. ‘He’s done every McQueen show ever, it’s been so amazing to collaborate with him, ’ says Esh.‘I feel like the LVMH prize was a great moment for me – it helped me as a young businessperson, and gave me a platform to talk to people in the fashion industry who I’ve admired since I was young,’ he continues. ‘I never thought I’d be doing that at this stage of my career. I feel like I’m moving forward with confidence.
There is a tendency by young designers to overcomplicate and over-explain their work. It takes confidence and skill to assemble an unpretentious and digestible debut runway collection as Esh has done. He no doubt has a promising future ahead of him.
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