Histories of Alaska: ‘Backwards through hell to get to Purgatory’: The tourist who spent 67 days lost in the Alaska wilds
on Alaska history by local historian David Reamer. Have a question about Anchorage or Alaska history or an idea for a future article? Go to the form at the bottom of this story.
On that day, Waters had no problem reaching the lake. He fished for an hour but was unsatisfied. He told the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, “I figured there must be a creek off in the foothills and set for it, but I never found one. I turned to go back and started following this stream thinking it would take me back to the road.”
The bloodhounds picked up a scent on the trail and followed it directly to Big Lake, where they repeatedly attempted to jump into the water. Bradley was confident Waters was dead and at the bottom of the lake. A diver searched for two and a half hours but found no traces of human remains. That same day, a state police officer discovered an abandoned camp 14 miles from Circle at Birch Creek.
He lived off cranberries, raspberries, and rose hips for over two months. “I ate the berries before they became ripe,” said Waters, “and then as the season ended and the berries started to go, I figured I’d go too. Ravaged by hunger, vivid food memories and cravings dominated his thoughts and dreams. “I would dream of roast beef and gravy, hot minced meat pie with ice cream, buttered popcorn, of boiled eggs and country ham.
His path, coincidentally enough, took him in the direction of Purgatory, Alaska. The site had been the retirement home of cartographer William Yanert who named the place Purgatory because “it was a hell of a place to live!” As fellow geographer Thom Eley noted, “the site was also as mosquito infested as any I have ever experienced along the Yukon River, which is saying something.” The News-Miner later suggested Waters had traveled “backwards through hell to get to Purgatory.
The hunters fortified Waters with some sugared vodka and water before moving him. They first took him to the Circle Hot Springs resort, where Waters enjoyed what he called the best meal of his life, a bowl of chicken noodle soup. He also sent a short, almost laconic telegram back to Kentucky, “I am on way to hospital. Will be home sometime. Tell Mrs. Root and Budd. Bill Waters.”
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