Chef Ricardo Zarate's Pikoh dishes whisper Peru when they should scream it, writes GustavoArellano.
But Zarate kneecaps Pikoh throughout his dishes: They whisper Peru when they should scream it.in a pesto for a hen of the woods platter, as a sauce in the kimchi fried rice, and infused in oil for a take on caprese. But none of them has the musky pungency that makes the herb such a hallmark of Peruvian cooking. It makes a wispy appearance in salmon miso that is bogged down by gochujang that somehow lacks its customary taste or heat.promised on the menu is less than an afterthought.
Beyond the food, Pikoh trips on key points. There’s a nice bar that serves strong cocktails, with sections devoted to rums, bourbons or Bruts, along with a foamy pisco sour. But it doesn’t open until happy hour, which also means that you can’t order the nonalcoholic, clove-heavyin the motherland is allowed to sit and ferment — and if Zarate thinks making the beverage to order beats that custom, he’s wrong.
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