Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton discusses the process of beetling linen, used in her spring 2020 collection for the brand.
was a resplendent celebration of group creativity and of attaining a sort of nirvana through craft. At the time of the label’s runway show last September, audiences fixated on a dress embroidered by the entire McQueen staff, bookkeepers to patternmakers, from sketches made by Central Saint Martins students.
The pattern then goes through a hammering machine, which flattens it and creates an iridescent sheen.Shown in photos and videos here, the beetling process that was used to make the collection’s iridescent looks—five in total—took place at Ireland’s William Clark mill. Founded in 1736, the mill is one of the oldest continually operating mills in Europe, and specializes in its beetling process, one in which linen is treated and hammered by wooden blocks to create a textural sheen.
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