Creative director Virginie Viard finds wonder and inspiration in the menagerie of animals in Chanel’s legendary Rue Cambon apartment and, unexpectedly, peppy majorette outfits.
Surreal and yet whimsical – that’s what the set of Chanel’s spring/summer 2023 haute couture presentation immediately brought to mind. Huge animal sculptures, including a camel, bird, dog and more – made out of plywood, paper and cardboard – form an abstract setting from which models dressed in the collection emerged at various points throughout the show.
Kittens, corgis, rabbits, swallows, does and stags find their way onto short tweed suits and coat dresses in the form on embroidery, imbuing in them a youthful twist that is mirrored in the whimsy of the runway decor. In fact, according to Chanel’s creative director, Virginie Viard, the whole embroidery universe of the collection is turned towards the animal world.
Viard also took cues from the dressing style of baton-twirling majorettes in festive parades – think short shorts, pleated skirts, tailed or double-breasted jackets, all of which are a nod to the peppy uniforms they typically wear. High hemlines naturally dominate this collection, but are also interspersed by jumpsuits and long dresses. The looks are aptly accessorised with top hats, bow ties, gloves and toe-capped lace-up boots, completing Chanel’s high-fashion take on majorette style.
The maison’s signature Lesage tweed is used to give form and structure to coat dresses and jackets, embellished with jewelled buttons and – in one stunning example of the latter – playful and feminine cigaline flowers. At the same time, Viard also introduced lightness and transparency to the collection with lace, taffeta, organza and silk tulle. These were heavily embellished with sequins to create patterns and motifs, or hand-painted all over with floral or animal motifs for a girlish, whimsical, spring-ready feel.
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