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The drum dancers of Mittimatalik prance, stoop and leap their way across the wooden stage outside the Nattinnak Centre in knee-high sealskin boots, joyously swinging and beating oversized hand drums as locals excitedly whisper that beluga whales have been spotted just offshore.
It’s a Sunday in August and only a few more artists have come to the Nattinnak Centre – a community centre and library designed to resemble the long and low type of iceberg that it’s named for – to greet the 198 guests and staff of Adventure Canada’s Ocean Endeavour. The community hasn’t had cruise ship visitors since 2019 and we are the fourth of 22 ships slated to spend a few precious hours here this summer.
Back on the Ocean Endeavour a few hours later during a recap of the day, Inuit cultural educator Alex Anaviapik, who is originally from Mittimatalik, shares the Inuktitut word for home.Nunavut was created on April 1, 1999, through Canada’s largest land claim when it separated from the Northwest Territories. About 85 per cent of its 40,000 people are Inuit. Its 26 communities are spread over three regions.
Along with 13 other guests, I took a charter flight from Ottawa to Arctic Bay on Baffin Island, and then a qamutik pulled by a snowmobile for three more hours. Watched over by armed Inuit guides and a guard dog, we slept in yurts at a base camp erected on the sea ice about 20 kilometres from the floe edge. Each day, we travelled an hour to the floe edge to watch for wildlife and kayak when the sea was calm.
has a wonderful gift shop full of Inuit art. The Unikkaarvik Visitor Centre has cultural exhibits and wildlife displays and the Legislative Building of Nunavut houses a fascinating Inuit doll collection and offers free tours that explain how the territory’s consensus-style government works. Twice before the pandemic, I visited the Makigiarvik Correctional Centre on a Friday to buy soapstone sculptures made by the incarcerated men who take part in a carving program.
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