Amid Ukraine's war, a farmer takes comfort in her snails

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Amid Ukraine's war, a farmer takes comfort in her snails
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Olena Avramenko's village of Veresnya, northwest of the Ukrainian capital, Kyiv, was quickly occupied by Russian forces. But her snails were too precious to leave.

Anton Avramenko walks by his snail farm in Veresnya, on the outskirts of Kyiv, Ukraine, Friday, June 10, 2022. Snail farming isn't the type of business you expect to see when you think about Ukraine. Though in recent years, as the economic relations with the EU are tightening, Ukrainians have mastered new ideas of production which can be a perfect fit for the European market. The Ukrainian farmer was living a quiet life with the quietest of creatures: snails that she raises for export.

The war’s disruption to exports of grain and other crops from Ukraine that feed the world has captured global attention and sent bread prices soaring across the world. But the production of other, more niche foodstuffs has also been impacted. “I stayed to protect our farm and home,” she said. “If I hadn’t done it, nothing would have been left.”

During the Russian occupation of her village, Avramenko found another calling: taking her mind off the war by dreaming up new recipes for snails when peace returned.

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