As Chicago-born Daniel Rose solidifies his status as one of Paris' most respected chefs, a new crop of American talent is shaking up the restaurant scene.
notes that the flurry of expat openings in Paris is not unique to American chefs, who are also joined by Japanese, Australian, and Korean talent, as well. “Paris remains the grammar school for aspiring cooks everywhere,” Tramuta said.
While Le Rigmarole actively challenges the notion of what a French restaurant looks like, Rose's La Bourse et La Vie is one of the most quintessentially Parisian bistros you can find—cozy and warm, it's tucked away on a small street in the city’s oldest neighborhood, serving sharply executed French classics with minimal riffs and local ingredients sourced obsessively by Rose.
"American chefs bring fresh perspective and are rarely as rigidly restricted to tradition or any set of codified rules, which allows them great creativity and inventiveness," said Tramuta. "There is a proliferation of these chefs because the market is so open to it now, far more so than when Daniel started and the French press talked about him like he was some kind of anomaly."
Indeed, the market's openness has made space for a boom in explicitly American-style restaurants, too; brunch specials line the narrow streets of the Marais. It's easier to find barbecue, tacos, and soul food than ever before . Echo Deli, a hugely popular California-inflected brunch spot, "feels like a touch of Los Angeles in Paris," noted Tramuta.Despite the current vogue for all things American, Rose admits he still sometimes feel like an outsider.
"The greatest compliment is people come to the restaurant and they don’t realize I'm American," he said. "Then when they find out, they’re like, 'Yeah, yeah, yeah, we could taste it.'"Tiny and imaginative kitchen reinventing French classics.Cozy, comforting French bistrot fare with a refined edge.Le Rigmarole 10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, +33 1 71 24 58 44Lovely wine bar and dining room with seasonal tasting menus from Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian.
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