Our critic had dined at the Hong Kong original, which famously won a Michelin star. Would a Houston version be able to compete? Yup.
You’ll want a pot of tea, of course. And some of the prettiest shrimp bonnets I’ve ever seen, their translucent crimped skins clasping a juicy shrimp filling of startling clarity. Just as impressive: pork and shrimp siu mai with a savory filling in which each ingredient kept its textural integrity. Here, the traditional orange topping is a single goji berry that pops out visually and, tartly, on the tongue.
For contrast, we ordered steamed rice wrapped in lotus leaves, fragrant and dramatic-looking and perfectly fine, if not memorable. What I’ll never forget, though, is the wild stretchiness of fried bao filled with chicken and ginger essence, the bun dough glazed to a gleamy brown finish on top. Somehow the frying confers an amazing elasticity to the shell, but the effect is so pronounced overshadows the delicate filling. They are gorgeous, though— and fun to eat.
The room is spare but handsome, and kind service was excellent, even on a jam-packed pre-holiday morning. There was a huge line when the doors opened at 11:30 a.m. Folks who didn’t make the cutoff for first seating — we missed it by two parties — gave phone numbers to be pinged when a table came up.
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