Read CathyHoryn's latest ParisFashionWeek review: 'Rick Owens probably had as much leather and high craftsmanship on his runway as others did. But only Owens has the power to demolish our notions of dress, and that is the quality that separates'
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Chloe, Getty Images, Courtesy of GivenchyPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Chloe, Getty Images, Courtesy of GivenchyPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Chloe, Getty Images, Courtesy of Givenchy
Rick Owens probably had as much leather and high craftsmanship on his runway as Givenchy and Chloé did. All three shows were on Thursday. His clothes are also more simplified this season, like those of Matthew M. Williams at Givenchy, and they are an interpretation of how he sees women today. That’s what Gabriela Hearst claims for Chloé, that her clothes embody an “urgent need to champion women as leaders.
But only Owens has the power to demolish our notions of dress, and that is the quality that separates truly great designers from those who are merely servicing the machinery of the luxury-fashion industry — that they allow you to see something you never have before.Owens’s shapes this season are indeed very strange.
If you’ve followed Chloé over the decades — from Karl Lagerfeld to Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo and then Clare Waight Keller — it’s hard to accept Hearst’s approach. Her designs feel less like interesting fashion than packaged luxury. She opened with leather and shearling: sweeping coats, vests and dirndl skirts in easy neutrals, most shown with block-heeled riding boots.
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