Known as juk or jook in Korea, bubur in Indonesia, lugaw in the Philippines, teochew in Singapore and dozens of other names around the world, there are an endless variety of ways to make a simple rice porridge.
“The first time I heard Jiangnan referred to as yu mi zhi xiang — the ‘Land of Fish and Rice’ — was as my family and I sped along a small road by Taihu, ‘Lake Tai,’ with a beautiful golden field of rice swaying gently with the breeze on one side,” writes Betty Liu in her gorgeous cookbook, “Among the many recipes in the book, almost half feature rice in some form.
Her congee recipe is meant to be a base that home cooks can play around with, adding or subtracting liquid to achieve their ideal texture, augmenting with other grains or vegetables for flavor, and finally topping with a variety of proteins and pickled, preserved or fresh vegetables., salted duck egg or chile-fermented tofu. But the possibilities are unlimited. “When I was a kid, we would each have our bowl of congee, and then a little dish of fermented bean curd.
For a springtime congee, she suggests sauteed or pickled green garlic or ramps — blitzed into a pesto or blistered in a hot pan — fresh peas, herbs and a squeeze of lemon juice.In the summer, corn is ideal on congee, either simply steamed kernels or a puree of fresh corn, swirled into each bowl. Quartered cherry tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs? Fried eggplant and zucchini? Tiny, just-cooked shrimp? Yes, yes and yes.
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