‘Balenciaga in Black’ at Kunstmuseum Den Haag features works in black by Cristóbal Balenciaga, capturing the unnerving modernity of the late couturier’s designs
than to dressmaking. Attending one of his shows after the war she recalled: ‘It dawned upon me, as the collection passed, that I was looking at works of art, a totally different conception of elegance.’ Featuring pieces on loan from Palais Galliera and Maison, this exhibition forces us to study clothes away from the body and the humdrum business of seasons. Pieces kept flat in the archives are shaped and unveiled; the curators ask us to assess the works for their sculptural qualities.
In the middle of the show is an expertly placed jolt of uncanny beauty: a 1967 bias-cut silk gazar, four-pointed envelope dress with embroidered rhinestones and pearlescent beaded straps, which has been trimmed and hemmed with crin mesh ribbon. It is unnervingly modern. Totally classic. In this period,’s research led him towards a deconstruction of traditional forms and the elaboration of increasingly abstract figures. It is a legacy that persists in artistic director Demna’s hands.
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