Chefs are rewiring the Chinese food narrative in North America — often dismissed and portrayed as cheap and fast, when the centuries\u002Dold cuisine is one of the most varied, storied, and sophisticated.
Recently, the Chinese Restaurant Awards invited two young, activist Chinese chefs — Eva Chin and Lucas Sin — to talk about their born-again experience with Chinese food, and to cook up a “New Wave” Chinese dinner. The friends had bonded over a series of Long Lost Cousin dinners in Toronto, based on their memories of Chinese food.
For Sin, his wake-up was in Kyoto while working at a three-Michelin star kaiseki restaurant. He learned the owner/chef had once gone to France “to learn about the best cuisine in the world” only to discover staff at restaurants preferred to eat his Japanese food — an a-ha! moment after which he moved back to Japan and took over his father’s restaurant.
At his restaurants, Sin serves American Chinese food without irony, instead, honouring the hard work, entrepreneurship, ingenuity and courage of immigrants enduring a racist culture. Steamed crab with egg white custard with hua tiao cooking wine honoured jau lau and was based on Chin’s mother’s recipe. They made wild rice noodle sheets instead of the traditional rice noodle for more bounce.Article content
Imitation shark fin soup, sold at hawker stalls in Hong Kong, has nothing on Chin and Sin’s version, starting with a complex broth made with spot prawn heads, scallop muscle trims, halibut fish heads, clam nectar, cured ham, local mushrooms, and Wingtat chicken feet for collagen. Julienned bull kelp mimicked “shark’s fin”. House-cured ham, shirataki and slivered braised fish maw added even more complexity. It came with crispy wonton dough sprinkled with lime leaf and lime leaf powder.
After moving to Canada, her heart ached for the Thai food she grew up with and so, returned to train under a two-Michelin star Thai chef and a one-Michelin star chef who had cooked for the Thai royal family.
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