To get to Gusto Bread, knock on the door of an old wooden house on a leafy, residential street, the front porch filled with cozy chairs and the earthy, nearly primal perfume of baking.
and other California farms, grinding his own flour in a small mill near the proofing table. He uses natural levain, or sourdough, for his breads — loaves shaped in the fabric-lined baskets that fill many of the available shelves and counters. Wooden peels and rolling pins, some antique, a red wine vinegar barrel and more proofing baskets fill more shelves, along with Cambros and brushes and a catalog of bench scrapers — the place feels like a well-stocked Old World bake shop.
The California loaves, hefty, deeply burnished bread built with grains grown in-state, are decorated with floured bear stencils fashioned by a local artist . Miches in various sizes use hard red wheat, spelt and rye, while the skinny baguettes — prettily slashed, their darkened tips as thin as felt pens — are engineered with a hard red wheat and spelt dough that’s been aged for 30 hours.
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