Following ThomBrowneNY through the process of creating his fall 2020 collection.
panic in the United States. In New York, it’s raining and sirens are blaring, but we are in the considered calm of Thom Browne’s office in the Garment District. Browne is demonstrating his daily switch-a-roo from a custom sport wool blazer, now pristinely hung on the back of his chair, to a well-loved cashmere cardigan that he wears while sketching at his mid-century desk. Browne is framed between monolithic paintings of squares, triangles, and squiggly lines as he picks up a marker.
At first glance, it might seem impossible that one of Browne’s sketches, so square, finite, and inflexible, would become clothing. “I sketch this way because I can’t actually illustrate—at all,” the designer laughs, slowly walking us through his key shapes and their meanings. A triangle would become a pleated skirt, a staple of the Browne oeuvre. A square? That’s a shorter jacket, while a rectangle would be a piece of outerwear.
To the outsider, the Thom Browne universe can look cold, uncomfortable even. Why would you strap your body into tight little shorts, strap your mind into such a specific way of working? But within the gray walls of Browne’s offices in New York and Paris, there is much warmth, much play, and lots of room to push boundaries..
The hero look, or should we say looks, in this documentary are the first ones out on the runway. Worn by a male and female model, the ensembles transpose Browne tropes into a new mode of fashion for the future: skirts as tops, cardigans as scarves, and crisp white shirts as trains on navy overcoats. It’s all the Browne signatures, topsy-turvied until they come out new, and paired with wonderfully silly giraffe-shaped bags to boot.
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