From banh xeo tacos to Hainan chicken and falafel fillings, Angelenos will turn anything into a taco.
In Los Angeles, the taco has for decades served as a canvas for diverse chefs who have long called the city home and likely grew up folding convenient ingredients from their own cultures into tortillas. In 2008, Roy Choi brought nontraditional tacos to the mainstream with the Kogi BBQ Truck, pushing the envelope with fillings like tofu, calamari and kimchi. Yes, it was the beginning of a modern food truck revolution, and only accelerated a movement of multiethnic taco transformations across L.A.
Although Sarkar experimented with different vehicles for his duck birria, including roti, he settled on a fried corn tortilla as the sturdiest option, which is necessary for the side of consommé, with notes of garam masala, green and black cardamom and other warm, aromatic spices. 705 West 9th St., Los Angeles, 266-8989, baarbaarla.com Brothers Ignacio and Felipe Santiago combine their Oaxacan backgrounds with culinary experiences in a Lebanese kitchen to create X’tiosu’s famous tacos.
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