Daniel Lee’s workwear, tailoring and day dresses for Burberry felt both challenging and desirable – just what people want from him, says Anders Christian Madsen.
“I think the brand is about functionality,” Daniel Lee reflected after a debut show for Burberry that dialled down the glamour of previous interpretations in favour of a more everyday sensibility. That sounds a lot more normal than it looked.
If there was a British romanticism to Lee’s collection the way we’ve often known it from Burberry, it was the industrial kind, if that’s not a total oxymoron. The show opened with two green trench coats that looked as if they’d been soaked in petroleum, trimmed with very faux-looking faux fur collars and big rigid morphs between military riding boots and wellies. Later, various adaptations of the trench coat followed in anoraks and shirt-and-trouser combos.
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