News broke this morning that Riccardo Tisci is leaving Burberry, and is to be replaced by Daniel Lee. What are your thoughts on the shake-up?
was to invite her to create a capsule collection for the brand. “Vivienne is like a god to me,” he says, “and to many people. She represents so much to so many people. When I first saw her work I was this young, gay boy in Italy looking at magazines. Femininity in a man is no problem, she taught me that.” The elder designer was, he says, marginally thrown when he first approached her for the collaboration.
having moved back to Milan, Tisci worked for Puma, Coccapani and then the pioneering leather-goods brand Ruffo Research, but just as he was completing his first collection for that company, in the summer of 2004, it closed. And so the Riccardo Tisci label, darkly romantic, delicately gothic, was born, made by the designer at home, with the help of his mothers and sisters, and shown off-schedule. Orders began coming in...
– shown in a disused factory in the suburbs and based on the Lenten parades of Catholicism, it was a breakthrough. Presented against a backdrop of a monolithic crucifix and modelled by Mariacarla Boscono – a dear friend whose face also appeared on the illustration for Tisci’s graduate collection invitation – and her contemporaries for free, it caused a sensation.
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